The Kerala backwaters have been a well-kept secret for a long time but increasing tourist interest in recent years has resulted in it becoming a popular travel destination.
Cochin
We arrived in Cochin (Kochi) late at night. It was a long drive from the airport … 90 minutes to the hotel … only to discover we had left a carry-on bag at the airport! That’s what happens when you mistake your duty-free bag for a carry-on bag. Taxi ride back for another 90 minutes. Then it was a mission trying to re-enter the airport without a valid departure ticket. Thanks to our driver and his Tamil language skills for getting us into the baggage claim area. Sitting in the middle of the hall looking lonely was the offending bag. After a lot of hand gestures and providing evidence of my baggage receipt, we were able to claim the bag. Another 90 mins in the taxi before we rolled into bed at 4am.
We did a bit of sight-seeing in Kochi early in the day. Later, we visited the beach and watched the fishermen draw in their fishing nets from the Indian Ocean. It’s hard manual labour, but they are wiry and strong!
If you are in South India, your day must start with spice! Ok, so it’s a bit early in the day for “curry” but there’s nothing to beat a masala dosa or idlis or vadas for breakfast. You must try the awpas. They are little egg crepes made in bowl-shaped frying pans. It is interesting to watch the chefs in action, making them fresh and straight to your plate. You can eat several of them plain (like I did) or with different fillings. Yum!
Alleppey
We booked an overnighter on a houseboat … my first time ever! The staff on board seemed to outnumber the guests but were very attentive and polite. A sumptuous seafood dinner (obviously!) was served on deck. We chatted and entertained ourselves before retiring to our cabins. A lot of midgee-like insects were flying around at night and we were happy to get out of their line of attack. It was weird to feel the gentle rocking of the boat at night. It felt like sleeping in a waterbed!
The houseboat sets sail around the Kerala backwaters at dawn. We eat breakfast while watching the sun rise beyond the never ending line of palm trees. There’s a high amount of traffic with boats of different sizes sailing up and down. We cruise along the lagoon and bays until lunchtime. There is a stop at a fish shop where you can select fresh crayfish, lobsters or other fish, which the staff will cook on board. This is served with rice and plenty of vegetables. More cruising along the backwaters until we alight. If you are adventurous, you can get off the boat and do some kayaking.
Munnar
From Alleppey, we head to the hills of Munnar, famous for its tea plantations. We drive up through a sea of green, with tea trees on both sides. The hotel at the top is lavish and spacious. There is an unbelievable spread of food. Social activities are organised for those who wish to join in. The morning temperatures are cool and the weather is pleasant. Waking up to a magical sunrise again, with the rays breaking through the mist makes this an idyllic and peaceful location.
Other sights to see:
- visit a tea plantation for a closer look at the leaf-picking and selection,
- watch the elephants as they bathe in the river, or
- visit the nearby farm for authentic spices and natural herbal treatments.
Be prepared for long drives from Cochin to Alleppey and then to Munnar. We spent 3 days here as we were in transit. If you have more time, you can go further south to Kovalam and see some of the finest beaches in Kerala, or Kanyakumari at the southernmost tip of India.
Leave a reply