Highs and Lows in Peru

Machu Picchu is a Peruvian highlight and topped our wishlist. With this as our key destination, we weaved in other cities we wanted to visit in Peru. It meant criss-crossing the continent from Rio in the east to Lima in the west and back.

Cusco

To get to Machu Picchu, we first travelled to Lima, the capital of Peru. Then it’s an hour’s flight to Cusco in the Andes mountains at 3400m (11000ft) and the birthplace of the ancient Inca civilization. The Spanish invaded it in the 15th century. Their strong influence is evident in the architecture as you walk through the town. The main square, Plaza De Armas, is buzzing with tourists and locals enjoying the afternoon. Cusco Cathedral, an imposing building was formerly an Inca palace, later converted into a cathedral. There are plenty of restaurants around the square where you can try out the local cuisine. Guinea pig (cuy) is a popular local dish, as is alpaca meat. Quinoa and rainbow trout are produced in abundance. I had my fill of quinoa soup for the year!

Other places we visited around Cusco were:

• Pukapukara, a resting place for couriers who exchanged goods while travelling from Cusco to Sacred Valley;
• Qoricancha, the palace of an Inca ruler which was taken over by Spanish and converted to Dominican church and convent
• Sacsayhuaman (pron sexy woman) which was the battleground of the Incas and Spanish invaders. It was a massive fortress of limestone rocks perfectly fitted together. It stands a further 200m above Cusco and has sweeping views of the city below.  At that height, you almost felt you were walking in the clouds.

We were not prepared for Soroche or altitude sickness. Going from sea level in Lima to Cusco at 3400m (11,000 ft), you need to 1-2 days to acclimatise. We took it easy the first day, resting and drinking plenty of water and the local coca tea. However, I was uncomfortable with headaches and lightheadedness. I regret not taking altitude sickness medication prior to arriving here. Consult your GP in advance as it may react adversely to other meds you are taking.  Thankfully all hotels here provide you with oxygen on request and the O2 tank became my best friend.

Sacred Valley

After the first couple of days, it was a relief to move lower down to the Sacred Valley. We drove through the Peruvian Highlands, the farming terraces in Chincheros and spent an afternoon at Ollantaytambo visiting more Inca ruins. Wandering the cobbled streets and terraces with drainage or irrigation canals running through the centre is like a passage back in time. The locals were dressed in brightly coloured woven clothing and hats. We got animated at the sight of llamas and alpacas. I recommend staying a couple of nights in the Valley, an idyllic location in the Andes foothills.

Machu Pichhu

Our excitement reached fever pitch on the day of our trip highlight … the visit to Machu Picchu. You must start early to get good value time-wise.  There is a 90-minute ride on the Vistadome train from Ollantaytambo to MP station in Aguas Calientes. A 20-minute bus trip follows, on a series of hairpin bends. Along the way, you see stretches of the Inca trail and adventurous people walking the 165km to MP, which takes 3-4 days. The local administrators maintain a strict limit on the number of people permitted to enter the site on any given day. You will need your passport for identification though you are still in the same country. We were prepared for rain and sandflies but neither made an appearance.  

In comparison to Cusco, Machu Picchu is much lower at 2400m (8000 ft). It is concealed in the valley and is not visible from the bus or train. The climb to the top takes approx. 30 minutes.

It’s hard to describe the sense of awe and wonder when you scale the peak. The Incas built this incredible fortress with farming terraces, granaries, and temples for the Sun God, hidden away in the mountains. They created it with precision and foresight centuries ago. Hiram Bingham, an American historian, only discovered it in 1911.

I had to take several breaks while climbing. I struggled to breathe and my heart almost ceased but I made it!  Bucket List (tick).

Puno and Lake Titicaca

As if the high altitude was not a deterrent, we continued on to Puno which was even higher. You can travel by bus (8 hours) or train (10 hours). We opted for Peru Rail and it was a great train journey through the Peruvian highlands. Along the countryside, you see quinoa and corn farms, alpacas, llamas, sheep and flamingoes. The service on the train is excellent, with meals provided and entertainment from local dancers, folk music and even a fashion show. The train only has 1 stop on this journey – at La Raya – the highest point at 4300m high. There wasn’t much to see except miles of countryside and a few stalls with locals selling their woven clothes and furry toys. And it was freezing and windy.

Just prior to arriving at our destination Puno, we passed through Juliaca, a bigger town with an airport from which we would later fly out. It was incredible to see the stalls and shops on either side of the railway track, so close you could literally lean out and touch the awnings. Fortunately, the train moves at a snail’s pace through the town.

Lake Titicaca is the highest freshwater navigable lake at 3800m (12,500ft). and covers 8500 sqkm, one-third of which is in Bolivia.

The Uros islands also known as floating islands or reed islands are only a couple of kms from the mainland. The inhabitants live a primitive lifestyle but they seem content. Their ancestors conceived this mode of living on the lake in order to escape from Incas. They use dried and compacted Totora reeds bound together to build the islands, their houses and boats. The islands have a spongy and bouncy feeling underfoot when you walk on them. Solar power is recent modern amenity.

Lima

Peru is fascinating at high altitude; however, it was a relief to descend to sea level and be able to breathe normally. 

Lima is a lovely old city with a population of about 11million. We stayed in the trendy Miraflores area which seems to be the “happening” place with restaurants, bars and shopping centres. It is close to the ocean and there was plenty of road construction and development going on.

A walking tour of colonial Lima covers the Lima pyramids, the Lima Cathedral and catacombs, tomb of the famous conquistador Francisco Pizarro and the main square Plaza de Armas. The square was buzzing with activity, parades, marching bands and people in a festive mood. You will see some old buildings with ornate carved doors and charming balconies, evidence of a strong Spanish influence on the architecture.

From Lima, if you look west across the Pacific as the crow flies, the next large land mass you will see is Australia. If only we could fly home that way rather than around the Atlantic! The return flight was gruelling, so make sure you travel by a more convenient route or break journey to avoid fatigue.

Grateful appreciation to our fellow travellers who supported and encouraged us along the journey especially when dealing with altitude sickness.

Many thanks to Llama Travels who tailored this itinerary especially for us and accommodated our ambitious plans.