Vietnam

Of the Southeast Asian countries in our geographical neighbourhood, we associated Vietnam mostly with the war of the 60s and 70s and the international campaign to end it.  The country emerged from that dark period and rebuilt itself into a strong economy and popular holiday destination. This trip provides us with an opportunity to learn a bit more about its history and to soak in the culture.

We started in Siem Reap in Cambodia, crossed into the south of Vietnam  and will travel north along the coast, finishing in Hanoi.

Ho Chi Minh city

Formerly called Saigon, the city was renamed after their independence leader and President, Ho Chi Minh. The first thing that strikes me on arrival is the throng of two-wheelers everywhere. I’ve never seen so many parking lots with fleets of bikes. They ride on one side of the road leaving enough room for the four-wheelers. It’s organised chaos as they take off at the traffic lights going left, right or merging from different directions. I did not see any accidents.

HCM has two seasons, warm and warmer!

On our day trip to a local village, Ben Tre, we drive past rice fields and vegetable gardens and take a ferry down the mighty Mekong River. Running through Tibet / Myanmar / Laos / Cambodia / Vietnam for approx 4500kms, it is a lifeline for those living along its banks and also vital for commerce.

An exotic lunch awaits, which includes elephant ears fish and dinosaur eggs (or what looked like it). We sample the village produce and watch the locals process a variety of coconut products like oil, toffee, icecream, coir. Nothing is wasted!

Cu Chi Tunnels

The historical part of our HCM visit involved a tour of the Independence Palace or Reunification Palace, an opulent building whose décor blended designs of eastern and western cultures.  The War Remnants Museum had a display of US tanks and choppers used for the war. We also visited a photographic exhibition of the victims of war.

Finally, we walked a stretch of the dense jungle trail to the location of the famous Cu Chi Tunnels, the underground network used by the Viet Công for guerilla warfare.

Some of us ventured into the four-foot high tunnels, crouching or crawling on all fours in pitch darkness for 40m … not for the faint-hearted!  They created the tunnels with great ingenuity to avoid being discovered. Booby traps were laid for any unfortunate soldiers who stumbled upon them. Cooking was done between 3-5am with the smoke/fumes filtered out so there was no smell and when it emerged above ground in the forest it appeared to be morning fog.  They even designed their footwear soles (now called Ho Chi Minh sandals), so that the imprint was back to front (heel to toe) to trick their opponents into thinking they were walking the other way.

This part of the trip was sombre but it has to be viewed from a historical and educational perspective.  The local guide’s narrative from the Vietnamese angle was confronting. So many lives were lost on both sides. It reinforces my belief that there are no winners in war.

HCM night life

Back to the happier times! HCM is a vibrant city that comes alive at night. Young people congregrate in cafes, on street corners and in the markets and city square. They love to dine out or just sit around chatting, on their bikes lined up on the sidewalks.

The cuisine is an experience in itself.  My favourite was Banh Mi – a baguette with thinly sliced meat and herbs. Pho is the popular soup with vermicelli, meat and herbs and another favourite is Bun Cha … grilled pork, rice vermicelli, Vietnamese herbs and fish sauce. They love their rice and noodles. You get them for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Beer @$3 was cheaper than soft drinks @$3.50. To give you an idea … US$1 = 22,000 VND. Most vendors accept both the local currency (dong) as well as US$. Vietnamese coffee is very strong with no milk. Thank heavens for the Nespresso sachets which I usually carry along for emergency!

Hoi An

We caught the tail end of Typhoon Damrey which had caused havoc and taken lives. Danang was saturated and waterlogged when we landed.  Security was very high for the APEC Summit being held here.

Hoi An is a picturesque and charming beachside town. I had heard a lot about it and was looking forward to going there. However, the main streets were submerged, making it impossible for sight-seeing. Tourists were evacuated and sadly the locals lost a lot of business.

We travelled further inland to the Tra Que village, sampling local fare, learning how to make Vietnamese pancakes, having herbal foot treatments and massages … and walking in the rain. Big disappointment …  we were unable to see the famous Japanese Covered Bridge due to the flooding.

Hue

From Hoi An, we travelled by road to another pretty city Hue (pron Hwey). We drove through a scenic area where the Perfume River met the ocean. Due to the heavy rain and risk of landslides, we avoided the mountain and instead used the Hai Van pass (8 km long tunnel).

We managed a cyclo ride in the city centre as motorbikes and four-wheelers splashed around drenching us. All in all, it was a good lesson to be prepared for the unexpected while on holidays but make the best of it anyway.

Hanoi

After an unremarkable day in Hue, we flew to Hanoi for the final leg of our trip. The weather in the north of Vietnam is quite different from the south. It is autumn, bright and sunny, and we are relieved to have left the H2O behind.

Hanoi was designed by the French and is sometimes referred to as “Paris of the Orient”. Our hotel was located between the French Quarter and the Old Quarter. Each of these areas had its own particular charm with a mix of French architecture and the traditional pagoda-style houses.  We drove along the Ceramic Road which is lined with decorated walls for several kms to commemorate the Millennial Anniversary of Hanoi. It made the Guinness Book of World records for the largest ceramic mosaic.

More sight-seeing in Hanoi at the Temple of Literature and the National University.  Not far away is the Hoa Lo Prison where Americans POWs were held. The major portion of the complex was sold and now houses the impressive Hanoi Hilton with the prison (aka Hanoi Hilton) in its shadow below.

We took a cyclo ride through the old quarter of the city centre exclaiming oohs and aahs as fast-moving traffic passed within inches of us.  We had a final dinner at the Old Hanoi before we set off for the night markets. There was a great buzz at the start of the weekend with the main streets  closed off to make way for street vendors and buskers.

Water Puppet shows are unique, colourful and skilful, with puppeteers standing in waist-deep water behind a screen and manoeuvring the puppets.  Make sure you see one.

Ha Long Bay

We are approaching the last leg of our trip and the highlight, an overnight cruise on Halong Bay. The bus drive from Hanoi is 200 kms (4 hours) on narrow roads.  As usual, there is a throng of two-wheelers and the loads they carry each tell a story.

Vietnam is one of the biggest manufacturers in Asia, producing brand name clothing, Adidas and Nike shoes, and even my Canon that snapped some of these beautiful photos. Along the way, we visited the Hong Ngoc Humanity Centre, a handicraft store for the disabled and victims affected by Agent Orange.

There is a feeling of expectancy as you approach Halong Bay and see the limestone structures looming out of the water. They extend over the horizon seemingly to infinity … actually all the way to China, which is only 100kms north.

The boats silhouetted in the setting sun looked magnificent.  We enjoyed the breath-taking views and the tasty meals served. Activities included a happy hour on deck, climbing Titop Hill, visiting a cave and pearl farm, kayaking, tai chi at sunrise and a Vietnamese tea ceremony. The next day it was again Ha Long drive back to Hanoi.

Day cruises are available but if you are driving from Hanoi and back the same day, it’s very rushed. Do the overnighter if you want to fully enjoy this idyllic location.

Homeward bound

Security has been tight everywhere due to the APEC Summit. Our flight home is delayed 45 minutes as the airspace is cleared to make way for Air Force One and Mr Trump.

This has been an incredible and educational trip. The local guides were informative and we got a good feel of the place. The tenacity of the Vietnamese people to overcome a difficult period in their history is admirable.

UK’s Top Gear did a great TV series on biking around Vietnam, which opened it up for tourism.  Hope I’ve done my bit too, with the Vietnam H-series: Ho Chi Minh –> Hoi An –> Hue –> Hanoi –> Ha Long Bay.

Acknowledgements to our friends Pete/Pat, Ron/Colleen and Bernice whose company made it an enjoyable trip. Also to Wendy Wu Travels for chalking out a super itinerary.